Codfish: Why is it so popular in Portugal?


Many people ask me why codfish is so popular in Portugal, so I decided to explore this culinary phenomenon!

In Portugal, we call codfish “bacalhau,” but it’s not the fresh fish you might know elsewhere—it’s dried and salted. Bacalhau is not just dried fish; it embodies a cultural icon. A blend of history, religion, and practicality made it a staple diet for millions of Portuguese.

Preparing bacalhau is almost like a ritual. We soak it in water for at least 24 hours, changing the water regularly. Some prefer a full 48-hour soak. Mastering this water-changing ritual proves tricky, but the reward—a classic Bacalhau com Natas for example—makes it worthwhile.

The Catholic Church’s Influence

The Catholic Church helped a great deal in making bacalhau a popular dish. By prohibiting meat on Fridays and during Lent, it sparked demand for alternative proteins. Bacalhau’s long shelf life made it an ideal choice, especially in rural areas where fresh fish was scarce. Salting and drying preserved the codfish for months, ensuring reliability for religious observances and everyday meals.

As a Catholic nation, Portugal also followed Advent fasting rules, avoiding meat on Christmas Eve. Bacalhau, as a preserved fish, emerged as the preferred protein for this sacred, meatless day.

Economically, bacalhau transformed Portuguese diets. Fresh fish often cost too much and proved hard to transport inland, but salted cod offered an affordable, accessible staple. Over time, it became a cornerstone of festive meals, like Christmas dinner, weaving itself into Portugal’s cultural identity.

Long Voyages by Sea

Portugal’s seafaring heritage further boosted bacalhau’s status. During the Age of Exploration, sailors relied on codfish as their primary sustenance for long voyages. Its durability and portability suited maritime life perfectly, fueling expeditions that charted new worlds other additions like

like dried fruits or pickled vegetables alongside cod, which helped prevent scurvy. The cod’s stability allowed more space for these complementary foods, indirectly supporting health.

Does Bacalhau Remain as Popular Today?

Modern refrigeration and food preservation techniques have lessened bacalhau’s necessity, yet its legacy thrives. From religious rituals to national pride, codfish symbolizes Portugal’s history and resilience, proving that simple ingredients often leave the deepest impact.

Portuguese tradition claims bacalhau boasts “mil e uma maneiras” (a thousand and one ways) to prepare it—a saying that celebrates its versatility. Though not literal, this reflects the hundreds of recipes and regional variations.

Popular dishes include Bacalhau à Brás (with eggs, onions, and potatoes), Bacalhau com Natas (a creamy cod casserole), Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá (baked with potatoes, onions, and eggs), and bacalhau cozido (boiled with vegetables), a Christmas Eve favorite. These recipes highlight just how creative you can get with codfish. Check out the recipes in the links and see for yourself – a good time to practice your Portuguese too!

Why cod from Norway?

Since cod thrives in cold waters like Norway’s, not Portugal’s warmer coast, the country has long relied on imports. The trade began in the 1300s when Portugal swapped salt for cod with northern Europe, including Norway, where Vikings had mastered air-drying cod into stockfish.

By the 15th century, Portuguese explorers fished cod off Newfoundland, but competition from English and French fleets pushed them toward Norwegian cod.

Salted and dried cod, perfect for long voyages and religious fasts, became a staple. During Salazar’s regime (1934-1974), Portugal’s “Cod Campaign” boosted local fishing, but after the 1974 revolution and stricter rules, like Canada’s 1992 cod ban, reliance on Norway grew. Today, Norway supplies 70% of Portugal’s cod, with over 23,000 metric tons exported in 2019, fueled by sustainable fisheries and Portugal’s culinary tradition.

Do you like bacalhau? What’s your favorite ‘bacalhau’ dish? Let me know in the comments belo!


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